“Exosomes are a scam” – let’s break down the science

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Everyone’s talking about exosomes – but do they actually work?

It’s the latest skincare buzzword making waves on TikTok and clinic menus: exosomes.

You’ve probably heard people claim, “Exosomes changed my skin overnight.” Others say they noticed no difference.

The truth? From a medical perspective, exosomes for skin rejuvenation are not yet proven to work – and as Dr Low puts it: “Exosomes are exciting in theory, but the science simply isn’t there to justify their claims in aesthetics.”

What are exosomes?

Exosomes are microscopic “messenger” vesicles naturally released by cells. In research settings, they’ve shown potential to stimulate repair and communication between tissues – particularly in wound healing and regenerative medicine.

In skincare and facials, exosome serums are marketed as anti-aging treatments that boost collagen, fade pigmentation, and repair skin.

However, these products are not live, medical-grade exosomes. Most are cosmetic solutions containing exosome by-products or signalling molecules, not biologically active ones.

Why exosomes don’t work (for now)

“Many patients ask about exosome facials, but the results don’t match the marketing,” says Dr Low.

Here’s why:

• Unstable formulations: exosomes are fragile and require strict preservation. Most skincare-grade versions lose activity long before use.
• No standardisation: there’s no regulatory benchmark for purity, dosage, or delivery.
• Lack of peer-reviewed evidence: while animal and cell studies exist, human clinical data on exosome facials for skin rejuvenation remains minimal.
• Misuse in wrong settings: many salons use them as simple add-ons or “post-laser boosters,” with no proof they penetrate the skin barrier.

In short: there’s no scientific evidence that exosome facials improve collagen, pigmentation, or elasticity in real human skin.

What the research really says

While early lab data shows theoretical potential for cell repair, most studies are preclinical – conducted on petri dishes or animal tissue.

• No peer-reviewed human trials demonstrate significant improvement in collagen or elasticity after exosome skincare use.
• The regenerative potential of exosomes remains promising in medical research, not cosmetic application.
• Leading dermatology journals have called for stricter regulation before exosome products can be marketed as aesthetic treatments.

Why some patients still think they work

Placebo effect is powerful – and post-laser recovery can make any serum appear to work temporarily.

“When your skin heals after laser or microneedling, it’s the body’s natural collagen response – not the exosome serum – doing the work,” explains Dr Low.

Additionally, many exosome facials are paired with hydrating or brightening actives, which can give short-term glow but aren’t related to exosome function.

What Dr Low recommends instead

If you’re looking for results backed by science, Dr Low recommends treatments with proven efficacy:

• Quattro Toning for skin tone and texture
• Heaven Glow or PN Skinboosters for hydration and radiance
• Ultherapy Prime for lifting and firmness

“We always choose treatments that have clinical data, measurable results, and long-term safety. For now, exosomes don’t meet that standard.”

The final take

Exosomes sound futuristic – and they might one day have a place in regenerative aesthetics. But as of now, there is no scientific evidence that exosome facials or exosome therapy improve human skin.

Until studies prove otherwise, Dr Low’s advice is simple:

“Stick to treatments that are clinically validated. Science, not trends, should drive your skincare decisions.”